Bhutan

Quest For bliss

Bhutan has been lauded by many as the happiest country in the world.

Curious travellers are very much drawn to very notion, despite the high daily tariffs imposed on visitors. Some take a reprieve from the daily stress of everyday life and work; wanting to discover for themselves the secrets to the fountain of bliss. Why are people perceived to be the happiest in this small inconspicuous Himalayan Kingdom where wealth, resources and technologies needed in modern society are clearly not in abundance?

Scholars and government officials from various countries visit Bhutan for a very different reason altogether. They are surgical in the analytical dissection of the famed Gross National Happiness (GNH). One of the strangest barometers of national success ever institutionalised in the modern world, GNH de-emphasise material wealth and broadens its indices across four development pillars. In short, they are hunting for the elixir of good governance - the ability to attain, measure and implement happiness at a national level.

One of humanity’s oldest pursuits, and a key tenet in major religious and philosophical inquiries for centuries, the endeavour to happiness has never since ceased. If Bhutan does live up to her accolades, we might just be able to inch closer to the true meaning of happiness - if we can pry open some of her secrets to a more enriching and fulfilling life.

Pride in imprecision

Archery is a well-adored sport in Bhutan. Despite improvements in bow technologies over the years, the Bhutanese still prefer the traditional recurve wooden bows and arrows to their modern compound bow siblings in traditional competitions.

Archers have to strike a target no bigger than an A4 sized paper over a distance of ~140 meters! With traditional wooden constructs, the slightest draught would veer the arrows off course significantly. The delicate balance between applied tensile strength, wind compensation and drag caused by minute imperfections inherent in each wooden arrow - makes the sport an incredibly challenging one.

Donned in traditional Gho, the men showed immense camaraderie and indulgence in the process. Dances are part and parcel of the game, a form of ‘war cry’ to either encourage or celebrate when one finds the bulls-eye.

It is however through these traditional form of the sport, where we observe the Bhutanese - spectators and archers alike - immersing deeply in joy and appreciation. Perhaps it is through this shared understanding and insistence on old ways of the game, that binds people fervently to the national sport; epitomising the true spirit of Bhutanese marksmanship.

When night falls

As part of tradition, a guy who sets his sights on the girl of his dreams, would perform night hunting as part of a courtship ritual. He will express his interest through coy hints and brief conversations during the day. When night falls, he will attempt to break into the lady’s house, be it through the roof, doors or windows. Skill in breaking in and navigating in pitch darkness is key. If he finds his target and the rest of the family is not awoken (some do pretend to be asleep), the girl can choose to continue the ritual or reject him. If she accepts, they do what birds and bees do. The most important step in this process is to never fall asleep. If the night hunter spend the night by mistake and the family catches him redhanded at daybreak, by tradition he is obliged to ask for her hand in marriage. Else he gets away scot-free with no repercussion and life goes on without more questions.

Not sure if this counts toward the happiness factor, but night hunting is remarkably a very liberal concept even by today’s measures. You can almost visualise the level of openness in those communities, where breaking and entering is not a crime and having children out of wedlock is not frowned upon in the name of tradition.

My night hunting activities however are restricted to the streets and towns only. No funny business here, I roamed out simply to capture life after dark.

wrinkled haven

The elderly pick their favourite spot in the Memorial Chorten in Thimpu without fail every morning. The temple provides basic meals and beverages and most importantly, a sanctuary for the old and retired to mingle and socialise. It is a place of the willing - a community reserved for the respected generation.

The usual creases and folds of wrinkles that usually carry the toils of life on on their faces are noticeably absent. In its place a labyrinth of wrinkles meticulously etched by the smiles, laughters and expression of amusement over many decades.

The ride home

These students have just completed the last of their exams, and have spent the whole afternoon at a friend’s place to celebrate. Bright painted nails was a big giveaway on what these girls were up to.

We drove pass them, and I stopped the vehicle to ask for a photograph - to capture the winding road of Paro with our subjects. They agreed, we exchanged a few words, and they posed for the camera.

When we were to board the vehicle to head back, my local guide tapped my shoulder.

Do you mind giving them a lift?

He explained that it was the same way back to Paro, and we had seats to spare at the back. I agreed of course. The students were overjoyed, and hopped in without second thoughts. They seemed to have no guard against strangers.

The simplest gesture of goodwill is sometimes the most telling of their communal spirit; how the Bhutanese seem to constantly look out for each other, as if they were next of kin.

The vehicle went on for another 40 mins or so without stopping - If they were to continue their way home by foot, it would have taken them at least a couple of hours!

institutionalising the ARts

The thirteen arts and craft of Bhutan, the Zorig Chosum, represents the soul and spirit of the Himalayan Kingdom. The Bhutanese recognise the importance of the arts and how easily they can be lost through rapid modernisation and connectivity to the outside world.

Hundred of years of craftsmanship, passed down by multiple generations of families specialising in each of the thirteen crafts, are carefully preserved and institutionalised under one roof. Future artists and craftsmen are able to explore and attempt other forms before specialisation.

In many countries where pursuit of economic progress compromises the conservation or development of the arts, the latter is often left behind.

Not in Bhutan. The ability to seamlessly integrate the cultural artifacts in their way of life creates a natural demand for the arts and craft. The efforts to preserve and institutionalise in turn generates career prospects and increased pupillage numbers. The arts touches on the core of their shared identity, and there must be a reason why it is held on to so tightly.

A shop owner in Lobesa showing his handcrafted art works that can take up to several weeks to complete.

RELICS OF DIARCHY

The Dzongs are ancient fortresses, key installations that used to protect the kingdom from foreign invasions. Whitewashed with intricate carvings, they are strategically positioned throughout the country. Now centres of government, military and religious administration, the Dzongs are exemplary fortresses of Bhutan’s political and religious symbiosis. Both the non-secular government and the religious leaders wield tremendous influence in the Kingdom. Like happy old couples in a life-long marriage, they have learnt how to live together harmoniously under one roof, yet give each other breathing space to excel in their individual strengths.

The majestic dzong

One of the oldest and most majestic Dzongs in Bhutan, Punakha Dzong is home to six-storied high buildings that make up the fortress, displaying the architectural prowess of the 17th century. Also known as Pungtang Dechen Photrang Dzong (meaning ‘the palace of great happiness’), it is a an administrative centre and pride of Punakha.

the fallen dzong

Drukgyel Dzong served as an important symbol of victory against the Tibetians in the 17th century. A fire broke out in the 1950s and razed most of the Dzong to ashes. Remnants of the Dzong are however very well maintained, earning a spot in the tentative listing of UNESCO world heritage sites. Plans are underway to restore the Drukgyel back to its former glory. The fallen Dzong exemplifies the Bhutanese insistence toward relic preservation of great historical significance.

The Iron DZong

Iron chained bridges that were built in the 14th century have survived the passage of time. Linking to one of the smallest Dzong the Tachog Lhakhang, the iron bridge is a testament to the engineering brilliance of that era.

Unifying religion

For a country to move in the same direction and pace toward happiness, a unifying philosophy is key. Vajyarana or Tantric Buddhism is the state religion of Bhutan and two-thirds of the population are Buddhists. The Buddhist philosophies of enlightenment, altruism, meditation, contentment, etc are major influences to how people would define and pursue happiness.

The mansion

Enroute to Punakha, I asked for a quick stop when I came across a dilapidated hut, basking in the glow of the morning light. It is perched on a small hill overlooking the valley beside a busy road, with canopies providing natural shade. Never mind the walls patched with metal sheets, or the lack of a running tap. The inhabitants clearly showed that you do not need a luxurious dwelling to be happy.

DoCHuLa Pass

At an elevation of 3,100 meters, 108 stupas were built in memory of the Bhutanese soldiers who perished in the skirmish against the Assamese insurgents from India in 2003. With the Himalayan as backdrop, the Dochula Pass offers a scenic landscape that is both strikingly arresting and subtly tranquil at the same time.

The phallus effect

For some reason, I had the impression that Bhutan is a rather conservative country. The amazement at phallic paintings, murals and artifacts from tourists - evident from the barrage of camera clicks in the fertility village - says otherwise. When you speak to a local they speak freely with no sexual overtones, degradation or embarrassment. To them, the phallus is simply an important symbol of fertility and ward against evil. Women wanting to conceive visit the fertility temples and have phallic representations of all sorts in their households. The worship is real.

In our societies where we believe that we are the most liberal, the sheer mention of genitalia is still taboo and can us get in a fair bit of trouble, at school in the workplace etc. In Bhutan such land mines were never present from the start. They seemed to be free of such self censorship since they have already embraced it decades ago. It might pave the way for more open-minded and constructive discourses on topics that really matter in their society.

the valley

In the morning, mist envelopes and move across the valley rapidly, taunting the observer with various glimpses of the landscape with every passing minute. I woke up to this mesmerising sight in the morning in Lobesa, from the balcony of my hotel and spent a good two hours staring in awe. With such beauty at their doorsteps, it seems unlikely for anyone in Bhutan to be chronically worried about anything, really.

Bhutan is also home to paddy fields and rice farming. Overall, Bhutan is self-sufficient in their primary staple and certain primary crops. Coupled with self-sufficiency in energy (through hydropower dams - Bhutan is a net exporter of energy to neighbouring countries), there are no external dependencies or burden placed on the primary needs of a country. Being debt-free in that sense might elevate the country up the Maslow hierarchy of needs, channeling much needed resources to the development of GNH instead.

the marketplace

The local markets in Thimpu and Paro carry a wide range of fresh local produce which are mostly organic. With further plans for a fully organic agriculture in Bhutan by 2020, the people can look forward to a cleaner diet, free of harmful pesticides and GMOs.

GEnder Equality

The Last Name Anxiety - preference for the male gender as they pass down family names, is non-existent in Bhutan. The Bhutanese do not have a family name (except for royal lineages) hence they do not suffer from societal ills such as skewed gender ratios that afflict most countries in the world. The practice of matrilocality, where the husband has to stay together or be in proximity of the wife’s maiden family, serves as a important counterbalance. It is no surprise to think that a female offspring might actually be preferred, as her parents would have their son-in-law living and taking care of them in old age.

The National Women‘s Association of Bhutan was founded in 1981to push for women rights. Ironically, their assessment revealed that Bhutanese women were already enjoying equal statuses to men and do not require any laws to be passed.

It is unequivocal that such sophistication in gender equality would lend some strength to a more harmonious and balanced society, a achievement beyond the reach of even some first world countries today.

more than simple fare

What would you like to have for lunch?

Probably some home-cooked Bhutanese food if I may?

I was brought to a villager’s house in Gangtey. The mother of two proceeded to whip out a few dishes in the same room, while her curious kids kept a safe distance. A few funny faces later, they stepped closer. Moments later, they had my camera and were happily snapping away.

Lunch was a mix of Ema Datshi (chilli cheese stew), potatoes, stir fried vegetables and Bhutanese red rice. I had my meal together with the guides and the boys on the floor without a table. It was simple fare, without pretence or need to impress the occasional tourist. Yet at the same time, it was a surreal and fulfilling experience in many ways. No expensive ingredients, exquisite cutleries, classy ambience or service. In its place, an intrinsic moment forged where there were no boundaries between foreign and local, client and agent, strangers and friends.

Crane hunting

The black necked cranes are migratory cranes to the Phobjikha Valley during the winter season period of late October to mid February. 163 km square of the valley have been designated a protected area by the RSPN (Royal Society for the Protection of Nature) who manages and conserve the area, under a lease by the Bhutanese government.

The cranes are a elusive bunch and would take flight if they sense you from a distance. Together with my guide, we set out on a mission to photograph a crane in flight. That proved harder than expected. Whenever we got nearer, they take flight from miles out.

We observed from afar, a group landing in a local farm. The fences proved to be useful as they shielded us from their line of sight. A local farmer’s dog came tailing behind and joined us on the hunt, perhaps sensing how hopeless we have become. After hours of hunting, we finally caught a glimpse of them in flight. Crane spotting checked.

the roadblock

A national initiative to widen Bhutan’s major roads, a tree that was cleared from the hills blocked vehicles from both sides. No horns, no pressure, no disgruntlement. Expecting a delay to the journey, a couple of us disembarked from our vehicles to help remove the debris. Drivers, guides and holiday-makers including myself, chipped in and got our hands dirty to clear the debris. It turned out to be rather enjoyable and saved us some time - and what could be an hour’s delay was drastically reduced by half.

the climb

A hike up the Tiger Nest (3100 meters above sea level) can take up to 2-3 hours, depending on how fit the hikers are. Beside the usual swarm of tourists, Buddhist devotees also make regular pilgrimages to the sacred Nest. Some are elderly folks but showed more tenacity and grit than younger travellers. In many occasions, I was overtaken by them (I still blame it on the load I was carrying).

One of the main draws to Bhutan, the grandeur of the Tiger’s Nest cannot be represented enough by photographs. You have to be there in person, to feel the thinning air when you ascend, to witness the enlargement of your target as you progress. The hike is therapeutic and has a calming effect on both mind and soul.

LAst Thoughts

Communal spirit - self-sufficiency - conservation of nature, heritage and tradition - open-mindedness - co-existence of religious and secular administration - gender equality - beautiful landscapes and communities - authentic human connection.

Through the various anecdotes and observations above, one can see why Bhutan is often referred to as the last Shangri-La. Their unique way of life, values and environment have over many decades, infused the building blocks of happiness into their DNA. It appears as if they are gifted with the enormous propensity to sustain happiness, deriving it in almost every activity they engage without much forethought or effort.

Happiness, for the rest of us in modern cities is usually ephemeral in nature; the surge of bliss and well-being that occurs only once in a while. We save up for that car, the watch in the shop window, our much needed year-end holiday vacation etc. Yes the instant gratifications keep us happy, but only for a brief moment. That is why we chase it, we hunt for an explanation, we focus on end results.

This may sound counter-intuitive, but perhaps the crux to a happy life simply lies in how unbothered we are with not having it. Victor Frankl is a psychologist who had studied the meaning of life in the grimiest of times during the holocaust. I’ll wrap up with two of his quotes that aptly describe the paradox:

“It is the very pursuit of happiness that thwarts happiness.”

Don‘t aim at success — the more you aim at it and make it a target, the more you are going to miss it. For success, like happiness, cannot be pursued; it must ensue, and it only does so as the unintended side-effect of one‘s personal dedication to a cause greater than oneself or as the by-product of one‘s surrender to a person other than oneself. Happiness must happen, and the same holds for success: you have to let it happen by not caring about it. I want you to listen to what your conscience commands you to do and go on to carry it out to the best of your knowledge. Then you will live to see that in the long run — in the long run, I say — success will follow you precisely because you had forgotten to think of it.” - Victor Frankl

Special thanks to my guide and driver, Chunjur and Thinley for making the trip so rewarding. They are amazing accomplices to many of the portraits and landscapes that I would otherwise be unable to capture.
If you are keen to travel to Bhutan, I would recommend that you check out Druk Asia (https://www.drukasia.com). They have been very accommodating to my requests and preferences throughout the trip. Especially impressed with their help on visa processing - I confirmed my trip with only less than a week before departure.

Do give Bhutan a visit, it was on my bucket list and I personally think it should be on yours.

(Note: I travelled out of my own expenses and no part of it was sponsored - though that would have made me much happier!)